Thursday, August 12, 2010

Impalila Island, Caprivi Strip Namibia: Basubiya people living in harmony with nature

Impalila Island is situated on the eastern most tip of the Caprivi strip and lies approximately 70km west and upstream from the Victoria Falls.  It is geographically significant because this is also where 4 countries meet, one of only two such places in the world.  Here the Chobe flows into the Zambezi river and where they intersect marks the end of the Caprivi.  The waters here are shared between Zimbabwe, Zambia, Botswana and Mozambique and two massive ferries work daily to transport passengers, cars and massive trucks across this stretch to and from Zambia and Botswana.

Impalila is home to a community of about 800 Basubiya people.  These are a peace loving community who live a subsistence lifestyle without too many of the frills of the modern world.  They have maintained a balance with nature such that the area remains rich in flora and fauna.  The islanders rear livestock (cattle and goats), grow various crops and catch fish in the surrounding rivers.  Possibly due to the islands isolation the population has not grown significantly and this along with strategic land use has meant that the community sustains its needs well.  It is this sustainability that is fascinating and makes for a good balance in the island community's way of life.  Huge baobab trees provide shade and form the focal point of many of the little villages scattered throughout the island.  The indigenous trees on the island have not been replaced by exotic ones and therefore the massive abundance of bird species that exist here have remained.  There is a school on the island and many of its graduates remain in the area and become guides at one of the many lodges on the Caprivi or in neighbouring Botswana.

They are not without challenges though.  They are at least 100km from the nearest major Namibian town, Katima Mulilo.  Botswana is just across the water to the south and the town of Kasane is where shopping is mostly done.  However the trek to Katima Mulilo is not always avoidable and this journey is best done over a few days.  Access to the island is mostly by boat, although there is an airstrip on the island too, that is maintained by Ichingo Lodge.  The Caprivi strip floods each year due to the rising levels of the Zambezi and Chobe rivers, caused by the heavy rainy season between November and April.  These waters are home to large crocodiles and hippos and the island also lies adjacent to the Chobe National Park.  Elephant do therefore sometimes swim across to the island to feed on its succulent vegetation, especially during the dry season when the mainland offers limited resources.  Despite these inherent dangers the Impalila islanders have learnt to live with them.  The community in fact understand the value of their location and they also welcome visits from tourists who would like to come and learn a bit about their way of life.  There are resident guides who provide well organised tours and the funds generated from this are channeled towards the upkeep of the community infrastructure.

Impalila is definitely worth a stop over for a few hours whilst on your Chobe safari or visit to Victoria Falls.  Luke and Suzanne from Vayeni have visited the island many times and maintain a good relationship with the members of the community. This is a genuine authentic experience and it has not been over commercialized in any way.

Watch our own short videos of life on Impalila by clicking on the following links:

Walking on Impalila
Boating around Impalila
Where 4 countries meet

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